Doll's Orchards, LLC

So far this month of May has been very wet with more than sufficient rainfall and cooler than normal temperatures. All this is good for the trees that were planted last month but not so good for the developing fruit. It’s difficult to keep a protective covering on the trees and fruit when there is too much moisture. A common fungal disease that affects fruit during a cool, wet spring is Fruit Scab.

Fruit Scab is a very destructive fungal infection. The fungus (Venturia inaequalis) overwinters in fallen leaves and spreads during a cool, wet spring. Scab develops and presents itself as velvety, olive-green to black spots on the leaves of the apple tree. Leaves may curl, turn yellow and drop prematurely. On the actual fruit scab begins as small, circular spots that become brown or black. As the fruit continues to grow the skin breaks leaving rough, scabby lesions. Severe infections of scab can lead to deeply cracked and misshapen fruit.

We try to keep scab infestation in our orchard at a minimum by prevention and sanitation. We rake and destroy fallen leaves and dropped fruit so as to eliminate the primary overwintering source of the fungus. In the spring any fungi that has overwintered shoots spores into the air. These spores are carried by the wind to developing leaves, flowers, fruit or twigs. Spores need several hours of moisture on the plant’s surface to start a new infection. These infections grow into the spots that are seen on the leaf’s surface. This infection cycle can be repeated many times throughout the growing season. Warm, rainy weather in the spring and summer gives scab ideal conditions to grow and multiply.

Proper pruning of the fruit tree provides a certain degree of scab prevention as well. When pruning we try to cut branches so as to improve airflow and sunlight. This allows the leaves and fruit to dry faster and makes an inhospitable environment for the fungi to develop. Planting disease resistant varieties is also a good way to manage scab.

Timing is everything when it comes to the treatment of fruit scab. Treatment begins early and continues throughout the growing season. Fungicides or sulfur-based sprays are widely used to suppress the growth of the fungus. When using any spray it is necessary to coat the fruit and foliage thoroughly including the undersides of the leaves. The goal is to kill the spores on contact so there is no additional spread of the fungus. Remember, however, safety should always be first. Read the label directions of the product for exact methods of application, safety warnings and how long it is necessary to wait between the final spray and picking the fruit.

An orchardist works tirelessly trying to provide a product that is pleasing in appearance and safe to consume. At times Mother Nature creates many challenges and does not cooperate as well as the producer would like. It’s a tough job but for some of us, it becomes a life’s passion.

It was an early bloom for the orchard this year. In fact, full bloom for the apple trees was on April 5th and that IS really, really early. We like to see bloom around the 20th of April so there’s a better chance to avoid freezing springtime temperatures. One sure thing in the orchard business, however, is no one changes or controls the weather. As a grower this is just one of the things you need to accept and deal accordingly.

So with the early bloom the honeybees were placed strategically throughout the orchard for pollination purposes. The apple trees’ bloom wasn’t as heavy as last year but the bloom period was longer due to milder temperatures. This longer bloom period allowed the bees to be out and active for a longer period of time. Without good pollination fruit set is less, thus making harvest smaller in quantity.

Application of pesticides, fungicides and herbicides has begun. It’s simply mind boggling the number of pests and weeds that “over winter.” A little sunshine and temperature warmup usually bring out the mites, ticks, scales and other creepy crawlers that create havoc in an orchard setting. Not only do the insects make an appearance but also the thistle, hemlock and other invasive species of plants.

So far it has been a drier spring with smaller amounts of rainfall. Tree planting has been completed. A block of older trees was removed and ground cleared. This area was cultivated and grass seed sown. It will remain fallow for this season and new trees planted there next year. Replant disease is common in areas that had old fruit trees removed. Old trees can contaminate the soil. Planting new root stock too soon in the same area creates an unfriendly environment delaying the new trees’ development and sometimes resulting in the trees’ demise.

The usual routines of orchard maintenance will soon be underway in earnest; weed eating, mowing and equipment repair. Another season has begun. A person just has to love it!

Pruning has been finished in the orchards for another year. It was a real challenge this season as we were having to deal with so much inclement weather. However, the equipment has been cleaned, repairs made and we’ve put it away for another year. Work now involves the cleanup of brush and prunings that are under the trees and in the aisleways of the orchard. Branches and debris laying under the trees are raked by hand into the aisleways. Then a flail mower/mulcher is used to grind the brush and mulch it. The mulch remains on the ground to add nutrients to the soil.

Pruning is really just the start of our current year’s growing season. The next challenges are getting the “dormant” oil spray ad pre-emergence herbicides applied. Sure sounds easy but once again growers are at the mercy of Mother Nature. Finding the “right” weather conditions for proper applications is the problem. Best results are achieved when wind speeds are minimal and weather temperatures are moderate to warm.

New trees are on the schedule to be planted. Most of our trees will be replacements for those lost to attrition. The first and most important step in planting trees is planning. We try not to interplant new trees with those trees already established. Sometimes, though, that’s necessary to do. When we plant a new area we measure length of rows, distance between rows and determine the spacing for each tree. Both row and tree spacing are determined by type of rootstock chosen and potential growth of the trees. Placing stakes as markers helps visualize the tree and row spacings. Stakes also mark the spot for digging the hole when planting. Straight and even tree plantings are necessary in an orchard for efficiency of equipment usage and harvest.

As this post is being made it appears all orchard work will again be on hold for several days. Winter has returned and we will need to await a warm-up in temperatures and a lessening in 20 mph wind speeds.

Heavy snowfall the last week of January and frigid temperatures in February put a halt to our annual pruning for several weeks. We were just getting somewhat “caught up” with things again but now we are experiencing a week of early spring rains. So once again things are on “hold.” We’re not really on a strict time schedule. We just need to finish before the trees start to run sap and come out of their winter dormancy. Our plan, however, is to have pruning completed and the aisleways of the orchard cleared of prunings and brush by the end of March.

A sure sign that Spring is just around the corner is the arrival of seed and nursery catalogs in the mail. Paging through the catalogs gets a person anxious to work the soil and plant garden seeds, flowers and trees. Besides the catalog mailings there are educational sessions scheduled for growers to renew their chemical applicator licenses. Growers are required to apply for and maintain licenses for application of chemicals to their crops and fields. There are measures in place by the Offices of the State Chemists to provide transparency and good oversight to ensure safe growing practices. Consumers can be assured that growers are making every effort to provide food products that are safe for their consumption.

Like all farming operations orchard work is both physically and mentally demanding. Orchard operations require manual laborers, “real bodies,” who have a high level of physical endurance. Working in an orchard isn’t sedentary or predictable. It requires critical thinking, solving real problems and taking responsibility when things break down. Believe me, things DO break down and nine out of ten times, things break at the most ill opportune times.

Orchard work is hard but satisfying if you have desire, a love for your land and a willingness to be a good steward of your land. People need food. The question isn’t if orchards need more technology to provide food security but rather it’s a question of who in the future is going to be willing to think, move, lift, bend, fix and endure the rigors of being a grower.

Fifteen inches of snow and single digit temperatures have put our orchard pruning on hold. We have been making good progress on the annual tree pruning up to this point, probably about 60 percent finished.

My focus of this post is a mature, fruit bearing tree and not a newly planted one. Understanding a fruit tree’s anatomy is very useful for a person to know before making any pruning cuts. Fruit bud, leaf bud, spurs and sprouts are terms that are good to have knowledge about before making pruning cuts.

Fruit buds, also called flower buds, contain embryonic flower parts and are the reproductive part of the plant. Fruit buds usually flower, get pollinated and grow into apples. Most of an apple tree’s fruit bud growth occurs in May, June, July and August. This period of growth becomes the fruit bud for the following growth season. So, the fruit bud for our 2026 apple harvest was actually developed in the summer of 2025. Pretty amazing, isn’t it? Fruit buds are generally fatter, rounder and fuzzier in appearance. They usually appear on older wood and these branches, or laterals, are horizontally on the tree and angle outward. Some fruit bud can be removed when pruning but care should be taken to leave enough fruiting buds unharmed as this is where your potential fruit crop will develop.

Leaf buds are sometimes referred to as “vegetative growth.” Leaf buds are smaller, narrower, pointed and lay flatter to the branch producing leaves and new shoots. First year vegetative growth with no fruit buds is called a water sprout. Vertical wood on an apple tree is more likely to develop leaf buds. Most of the vertical growth on a tree can be removed when pruning especially all water sprouts. Fruit trees can’t be treated as a shrub, shearing off only the tips. Tip pruning results in wild end growth or water sprouts.

Pruning is a continual learning process with no one really being an “expert.” Studying book illustrations will not teach as much as actually going into the orchard and pruning. Many home gardeners lack confidence when pruning their fruit trees and are afraid of making a mistake and so they do nothing – BIG mistake. Advantages of pruning far outweigh the disadvantages. Proper pruning methods make those big, beautiful apples we all look forward to enjoying at fall harvest.

Time has slipped away! We’ve made it through another harvest season and now trying to get back into a writer’s mode. Lots of good intentions but as previously stated, time slipped away.

We are currently digging out from 5 inches of snow and experiencing zero temperature. Wow, winter is here. With winter temperatures, the trees become dormant or maybe a better analogy, a deep sleep. Apple trees turn a deep gray in color when they attain dormancy. With dormancy comes our next challenge and that is annual pruning. When these cold temperatures become somewhat more moderate the pruning equipment will be taken out to the orchards and work will begin. We consider pruning as the beginning of another season and so another season will soon be underway.

We had a good harvest season with a bountiful crop of produce. Peaches were not as productive as other years but we did have a limited crop to offer to our customers. Apples, however, were very good in quantity, appearance and flavor. Both the peaches and apples had great flavors this season. We were blessed as some of the area orchards were damaged by a late Spring freeze.

The time period between the last days of apple sales and the beginning of pruning is spent repairing and putting equipment in storage, orchard cleanup, taking soil samples, applying fertilizer and any other odds and ends that arise. We try to organize and inventory supplies and get an assessment of what worked and what didn’t work so well in our business. Even small family businesses have to evaluate and make improvements to survive.

We are in the process of developing new plans for the orchards. Removing older trees and replacing those trees with plantings of more popular varieties, ways to reduce herbicide usage and improving marketing strategies are just a few of the areas we are concentrating.

Hopefully, 2026 will find me more focused in my postings. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.

This month of July has just about reached the halfway mark on the calendar. It’s been a somewhat wet month so far and hot. Both of these factors pose significant challenges for growing peaches. These weather conditions impact the quality of the fruit and also the trees.

Fungal diseases thrive in hot and humid weather conditions. Fungal diseases like brown rot and peach scab spread rapidly. Brown rot infests the fruit at all stages and affects fruit quality and reduces the yield significantly. Control of brown rot is difficult without regular fungicide applications.

Excessive rain can cause peaches to absorb too much water, diluting the sugar content and making them less flavorful. Besides affecting flavor, too much water can lead to fruit cracking and splitting. Fruit that splits can be damaged by fungal infections as well as pests (bugs). It is a misnomer to think that more water creates bigger and better fruit. Drier weather conditions actually create better tasting peaches.

High temperatures cause peaches to sometimes ripen prematurely leading to poorer texture and reduced storage life. A shorter development period also limits the time for fruit to accumulate carbohydrates resulting in sometimes a smaller fruit. Trees get stressed in hot temperatures thus becoming more vulnerable to pests and diseases.

Harvesting is a real challenge in overly wet and hot weather conditions. Peaches have a narrow window for harvesting and wet conditions hinder the picking process. We “spot pick” our peaches. That is we pick fruit daily as the peaches ripen versus “clearing off” and picking everything on the trees. It is hard to pick peaches in the rain.

The next question that most consumers have is if the peach is freestone or cling. Peaches are classified as cling stone, semi-cling and freestone. Cling peaches are the type where the fruit is woven into the pit. Freestone are those peaches where the pit separates from the flesh. Semi-cling are in-between where the flesh is attached but not wholly embedded into the pit.

Early season peaches are usually “clings.” Cling peaches are often smaller in size, juicier and sometimes sweeter. Usually more firm in texture, cling peaches are a good choice for home canning and making jams and jellies. Many commercial processors use cling peaches for canning. For those who prefer not to pry out or cut around the pit, cling peaches are delicious eating out of hand.

Freestone peaches are harvested later in the season. Freestones are the easiest to deal with as when it is cut the pit comes right out. Sometimes though, a freestone peach is not a “freestone” until it is completely ripe. The flesh does not grow into the stone but the stone sticks a little and is a little difficult to remove.

Semi-cling peach varieties are not seen very often at the markets. They’re a hybrid of cling and freestone peach varieties. They typically are sweet but with relatively easy-to-remove pits.

Because peaches are seasonal and not good for long term storage, consumers look forward to local peach season. Lots of challenges for us this year but we’re starting to harvest and looking forward to another peach season.

Entering this month of June, things in the orchards look good. Fruit development is good, trees look healthy, insects and fungus are under control. Perhaps the only factors out of control are the weeds and grasses and this is due somewhat to the wetter than normal weather.

Good rainfall, lots of sunshine and warmer weather promote the growth of grasses and weeds. Without the use of herbicides the only other method to maintain control of grasses and weeds from getting out of control is mowing the aisle ways and weedeating under the trees. Thus, we’ve spent most of the last several days getting the weed eaters out and putting them to daily use. We’ve been mowing aisle ways for several weeks.

Why be concerned about grasses and weeds? Our purpose in controlling weeds, especially under the trees, is to stop the growth of unwanted spores and fungi that grow on these plants. If weeds grow out of control and get too tall, our applications of the fungicides can not reach the fruit on the trees and the fruit becomes covered with diseases such as sooty apple blotch, fly speck and brown rot. Blemished fruit is unattractive to the eyes of the consumers and does not sell well at markets.

We haven’t noticed too much fireblight in the trees this season. Fireblight is the nemesis of any orchard, especially pears, as it is very destructive to the actual tree itself. Fireblight is caused by a bacterium that is carried by rains, bees, aphids or other insects. Once infected, new tree growth, especially the tips, begin to wither and blacken as if scorched by fire. Thus, the name, “fireblight.” Pruning off affected branches and applying antibiotic sprays assist in the control of this disease. Heat destroys the bacterium as well and as we enter this month of June, we should see hotter temperatures so we anticipate Mother Nature taking control of any more fireblight issues.

We are well aware of the dangers caused by overuse of chemicals in our orchards. We use all chemicals minimally and follow all directions that the manufacturer provides for proper and safe application and use. There are more and more studies providing data regarding the effects of chemical usage, especially herbicides. Please, please always read and follow label directions. Individuals can never be too careful when using chemicals in their gardens or flower beds.

Since the start of this month of April, our peach trees and apple trees have bloomed. A really glorious sight that we never tire of seeing. Nothing more satisfying after a winter of pruning than seeing this beautiful display of Mother Nature. It makes the hard work of the winter season feel rewarding and satisfying.

The peach trees were the first to bloom this year, somewhat later than our “normal” time. The later bloom was because of the very cold winter we experienced this year. For a time we thought there would be no blooms at all as nothing was happening but Mother Nature has her own course of direction and peach trees were in bloom the first days of April. As what usually occurs in this area, a hard frost (freeze) on April 7th killed many of the blossoms. However because some of the trees had blossoms that were not yet open we feel that all is not lost. We’ve noticed some development of fruit bud so we feel we may have some peaches to offer to our customers. Peaches are now in what is considered “shuck split.” Time will tell how many peaches will develop for us to pick.

The apple trees were spectacularly in full bloom for Easter Sunday. Wow, what a sight! Passer byes actually stopped to take in the breath taking view. From this point onward we do not want freezing temperatures as that would result in widespread damage to our fruit crops. The cold temperatures that we did experience were of short duration and the flowers of the apple trees being still in tight cluster were not sensitive to the cold.

Mother Nature has teased us this past few days. We’ve had temperatures in the 70’s with brilliant sunshine. Working in the orchard felt great, no layers of coats, gloves or insulated work boots. Great progress was made in finishing pruning, cleaning the aisle ways and picking up any pieces of wood cut from the larger limbs that were removed during pruning. Getting things ready for the coming season.

A horticultural oil spray, also known as dormant oil, will be the next step. Dormant oil refers more to when it should be applied, i.e. dormancy, when the tree’s active growth is suspended. Things would be simple if year after year we could mark our calendar and follow this same schedule. However, there is no set schedule to follow as varying weather patterns will create different situations. The goal to spraying is prevention. The orchardist sprays to prevent disease and not cure disease. After the fruit is damaged, the fruit cannot be healed, no matter what chemical applications are sprayed or how heavily those chemicals are applied.

Newer dormant oil formulations are typically refined from petroleum oil such as mineral oil. The formulation contains an emulsifier to help water mix with the oil thus providing a better and more complete coverage of the plant surfaces. Dormant oil is not harmful to pollinators and safe for human ingestion. There is no toxic residue and the spray dissipates quickly.

Dormant oil covers leaf and limb surfaces, suffocating insects and some insect eggs which reduce harmful insect infestations. It may also interfere with insect feeding. Dormant oil is one of the most important and effective sprays to apply. We were advised by an entomologist that if only one spray was applied during the season, it should be dormant oil. That’s how important it is to the orchard. It controls a variety of insects such as aphids, mealybugs, thrips, whiteflies, caterpillar eggs, leafhoppers, scale and mites.

When applying any spray, be sure you understand the purpose of the chemical you are using and ALWAYS follow the manufacturer’s recommended usage rates. All spray materials have label instructions and please read all labels carefully. Any spray can be harmful to health and the environment if it is misused.